What causes waves?
Try 3 issues of BBC Science Focus Magazine for £5!
There's some motion in the ocean - but what's causing it?
Asked by: Benny Matthews, Oxford
Advertisement
They're mainly due to the wind. The surface of a calm patch of water becomes stirred up by the frictional effect of the wind blowing over it, forming ripples. These ripples increase the amount of 'grip' the wind has on the surface, increasing the amount of energy it can transfer and causing the water to form waves. Coming into a beach, they rise up until collapsing into surf.
Advertisement
Subscribe to BBC Focus magazine for fascinating new Q&As every month and follow @sciencefocusQA on Twitter for your daily dose of fun science facts.
Authors
Robert MatthewsPhysicist
Robert is a science writer and visiting professor of science at Aston University.
Advertisement
Advertisement
Sponsored Deals
Spring Savings!
- Try your first 6 issues for just £9.99 when you subscribe to BBC Science Focus Magazine.
- Risk - free offer! Cancel at any time when you subscribe via Direct Debit.
- FREE UK delivery.
- Stay up to date with the latest developments in the worlds of science and technology.
SUBSCRIBE NOW
Advertisement
