Some dermatologists suspect a connection between skincare products and rising rates of frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) – the condition that causes hair loss at the front of the scalp, mainly in postmenopausal women.
A 2023 paper, based on data from nine different studies, suggests FFA is linked to use of facial products, including moisturiser and, in particular, sunscreen.
Cases of FFA have increased sharply over the last two decades, especially in Europe and the US, prompting researchers to look more closely at environmental triggers alongside genetic and hormonal factors.
One theory is that certain ingredients in leave-on products may penetrate the skin around hair follicles and trigger an immune response, gradually damaging the follicles over time.
The connection remains hard to prove, however, because of the size and types of studies being carried out. In two UK studies in 2016 and 2017, for example, scientists surveyed small groups of people with FFA. In the first, 100 women with FFA reported using more sunscreen than 105 women with no hair loss.
Similarly, in the second study, sunscreen (and moisturiser containing sunscreen) was used much more by 17 men with FFA than by 73 men without the condition.
These results might sound convincing, but Thai researchers remain cautious. In a 2021 study, they surveyed 250 Asian women, including 50 with FFA, and 100 with broader hair loss or thinning. Those with hair loss used significantly more moisturiser and sunscreen than controls.
But this kind of research can only show an association, not cause and effect.
There are also alternative explanations. People who notice early hair thinning may become more conscious of their appearance and start using more skincare products, rather than the products causing the problem in the first place.
It’s also possible that Sun exposure itself plays a role, meaning higher sunscreen use could simply reflect a greater time spent outdoors.
A better way to establish a link would be to run a trial in which people without hair loss were randomly assigned to use skincare products or none at all. But would such a trial be ethical if the products are genuinely damaging hairlines?
For now, most experts agree the evidence is not strong enough to recommend avoiding sunscreen, which plays a crucial role in preventing skin cancer.
The British Association of Dermatologists states that the cause of FFA remains unknown, although it suggests genetics, the immune system and hormone changes could all play a role.
This article is an answer to the question (asked by Alice Carthwright, Glasgow) 'Is my moisturiser making me bald?
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